Khao Soi Khun Yai

Khun Yai comes up again and again when people name the best khao soi in the Old City, and it's set up for a lunchtime run, not dinner. The stall sits just inside the north moat near Chang Phueak Gate, in the compound in front of Wat Khuan Kha Ma and across from Wat Lok Moli. There's no real signboard, so the entrance looks more like a temple driveway than a restaurant. You choose chicken, beef or pork; recent guides put a bowl at around 40–60 baht, and the broth runs on the spicy side. It sells out, and the beef and chicken go first.