Khao-Sō-i

Khao-Sō-i is a modern khao soi restaurant on Charoenrat Road on the east bank of the river, with a Japanese-leaning, upmarket take on the dish. The noodles are handmade and chewy, the curry broth is rich, and you can choose chicken, braised beef, seafood or a whole lobster, or have it dry and stir-fried. It doesn't take reservations, so expect a queue. I'd go for the beef first and save the lobster for a treat.